This year we took the dream trip of a lifetime – visiting Israel and Jordan at the holidays. We gazed out at the sites sacred to three of the world’s great religions, from the golden Dome of the Rock, Islam’s third most holy site which happens to directly abut the Western Wall, all that remains of the destroyed Jewish Second Temple. On Christmas Eve we walked the Via Dolorosa to arrive at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre just as the priests began their procession to the spot upon which it is believed (by the Catholics at least) that Jesus was crucified.
The Old City of Jerusalem was truly magical, both weighted by its incredible history and bustling and real with residents at the same time. The tightly knit Armenian Quarter yielded up a few treasures, like this massive crystal chandelier spied up a hidden staircase.
Chandeliers were a highlight of this trip – maybe they always are for me and I just hadn’t realized pre-Instagram? Spied this massive Dale Chihuly, a sister to the one I saw at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London this summer, at the Aish HaTorah Center in the Jewish Quarter. From their rooftop I took the “money shot” photo that starts the post. The view was incredible.
In the Arab Quarter we saw this amazing graffiti on the walls around a residential door. It’s a celebration and advertisement that someone in the home had done the Hajj, meaning they had made their pilgrimage to Mecca. Before moving to Doha, I would not have known was it was, but now I do, as here people put out flags and decorations for the same reason.
We went to Bethlehem for the graffiti as well. Our friends that we travelled with have been following the career of graffiti artist Banksy who has numerous pieces up along the walls in Bethlehem, including this one called Armored Vest Peace Dove.
But the real reason for going to Bethlehem was obviously the Church of the Nativity, although honestly it was so crowded I found it nowhere near as interesting as the Holy Sepulchre, except of course for the chandeliers…
… and not to get ahead of myself, but I must mention the amazing lavender Murano glass chandelier I found in the flea markets of Old Jaffa in Tel Aviv. But more about that in my next post.
We caught the Herod’s Tomb exhibition at the Israel Museum along with the Dead Sea Scrolls and a few other “old” things. Personally I was obsessed with his bathroom!
Tiles and mosaics always grab me and this trip was no different. There were Roman and Byzantine bits to be found all over, some out in the open, protected only by sand. My girls loved playing archaeologist and sweeping to make discoveries. We also worked on a real dig one day and found pottery shards, bones and other detritus of the ancient Edomites.
The old crusader fortress and UNESCO World Heritage City of Akko (Acre) was fascinating. It is one of the oldest continually occupied cities in the region and felt as impregnable as it looked. Napoleon lay siege to it for two unsuccessful months as did many other potential conquerors. It truly felt like we stepped back in history.
My favorite takeaway from Akko was these hexagon tiles in the old Turkish Hammam. I’d like to order some for a kitchen backsplash, wouldn’t you?
We hiked up Masada on New Years Day after an extremely tame Eve.
Our outdoor activities continued into Jordan where we slept (froze!) in a bedouin camp one night in Wadi Rum. My camera wasn’t good enough to photograph the incredible stars and confetti of the Milky Way, but let me tell you I have never seen the likes of it. We awoke in the morning to a red desert and scenery that seemed as if it had been painted by Hollywood. We hiked, we climbed, our guide cooked us lunch from scratch over an open flame and basically we had the entire place to ourselves.
From Wadi Rum we went on to the pièce de résistance of the trip – Petra! We had lowered our expectations, thinking to find it crowded and full of hawkers and simply unable to live up to the spectacular emptiness of the previous day. Instead, it was full of surprises and majesty.
Coming out from the narrow canyons to the sight of the Treasury was every bit as exciting as we had hoped.
Even more amazing was the huge Monastery, reached after a long hike. The scale and the location left us speechless – be sure to notice how tiny the two people are in comparison to the structure. These two buildings are the highlights of Petra but everywhere you turned there was something to see.
We had passed all opportunities to take donkeys or horse carriages preferring to walk the whole way. But the youngest amongst us was determined to at least get a camel ride in. It was a pleasure to grant that wish.
Of course the most pressing thing on my mind was where to buy one of those gorgeous camel blankets, but unfortunately, I couldn’t get that answer. Oh well, an excuse to go back!
For more photos from our trip and to keep up with my day to day finds, check out my Instagram feed. And from my family to yours, we wish you all health and happiness in 2014!
Andrea
This trip sounds utterly amazing! I loved the photos and can’t wait to hear more about the chandelier you found in the market!
Kathleen
Truly a trip of a lifetime, that I was happy to share with you! Once the the arctic chill breaks, and the kids go back to school, I will download and send you my photos…I have a few stunners!
Tokyo Jinja
Ditto except our chill today was 57 degrees 🙂
Jackie
Hello! I spent (a very tame) New Years in Petra and the evening of the first in wadi rum…and I envy your knees if you could do all of that without resorting to a creature to get you some part of the way at the end. The hike to the ‘high place’ on the first and – crucially – those stairs going down showed me what the future will look like.
Camel blankets are available in Amman. Among others, There is a carpet shop on the left side of the street leading away from the amphitheater (to the right as you look at the theatre). Maybe a 10-15 minute walk. The place advertises itself by bedouin rugs hanging over the first floor balcony on the corner. We ended up with embroidered southern Iranian wedding rugs instead but the blankets are around. The selection isn’t anything like Damascus used to be but the people are lovely and seem to care. They are willing to say what they don’t know, too…
Happy new year.
Tokyo Jinja
This is killing me – we were very rushed in Amman and frankly I had not yet seen the camel blankets to even know I wanted one so badly! Next time! So funny too that we were a day behind you…
roni jaco
Ha,
looks like a fantastic journey…do love the line about the camel blankets, I feel your pain.
Happy New Year.
Kazz
Ah, I love this post. Even though we just got back two days ago from our own trip (Senegal), it makes me jealous with wanderlust. And I still haven’t been to either place. They’re both on my wish list. Glad it was such a great trip. Happy 2014 indeed!
Tokyo Jinja
Wow, Senegal sounds exciting! Will you be writing about it? And I just saw the cheese project blog – off to go peruse 🙂
teawithainee
Thank you for sharing!
Steve@AnUrbanCottage
I really enjoyed seeing your photos on IG. What an experience and education your kids are getting!
Marloes
Wow, nice pictures! Must be a fantastic holiday. Part of the trip we will do in April. (Jordan) Happy 2014!
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